Friday, June 29, 2012

Hidden gem Ada Street hits high notes

Run, don't walk to Ada Street.  It's that good.  The location of Ada Street is completely unassuming, it's just west of that ugly industrial stretch on Elston avenue between Chicago and North ave.  When we drove up to Ada Street my companion sneered at me while taking in the less than desirable surroundings of abandoned warehouses and garbage trucks bustling, "What the hell is this?" I, on the other hand, had the inkling that something very unique was in store.  Why else would the guys who created uber successful DMK Burger Bar and Fishbar decide to land their next venture smack-dab in the middle of garbage truck lane and speculative crack den boulevard?

I was right, Ada Street was wonderful from the moment you pull open a huge industrial black door adorned with "ada street" all the way up to the mini-doughnut dessert.  Truly, Ada Street didn't have a single fault as every expectation was blown out of the water.  The scene at Ada Street is one of its greatest features; it felt a lot like entering Violet Hour.  The "smart, dark, antique, hidden" vibe works wonders here, as you move from a small candlelit holding room down a long wooden hallway etched with cabinets holding tequila and fine wines to the main dining room.  So elusive and chic.

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Next, enter an expansive bar and seating area that looks like a dressed up garage.



Nearly every table and bar seat was taken as Ada was humming on a Thursday night at 9:45pm, ensuring this place would be excellent for a fun date or a group dinner.  What caught my eye almost immediately was the outdoor space separated by a glass garage door.  Stringed globe lights, astroturf, a ping pong table, a DJ, and a keg.  Heaven? I think so. And I haven't even mentioned the food yet.  Every Thursday Ada street has a DJ spin vinyls while you enjoy a brewski and play a drinking game outside.  Perfect solution if you a) don't have outdoor space at home b) want to revert back to the good ole days of high school c) feel like you want to get your outside sporty on in a rousing match of table tennis while sipping a fine domestic brew.

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On to the reason we're there and the real show-stopper, the cuisine. We started with the salmon tartare, bacon two ways ($12).  Velvety, salty, with just a hint of fresh chive and whipped cream cheese, this heaping, sophisticated spread was bold and refreshing.  Much like lox you might get at brunch yet smooth and dressed up for dinner with two types of caviar.  I highly recommend pairing this appetizer and all dishes with the Louis Bouillot Rose ($8 by the glass) as Rose is light and crisp.  Rose is also having a big coming out moment this summer, more about that to come in another post.

Salmon tartare with bacon two ways
With relative speed our next order flew out of the open kitchen. The special of the evening, beef tenderloin with arugula and shaved, aged parmesan ($15).  The strips of tenderloin were perfectly peppered and all of the juices retained nicely.  The arugula reinforced the pepper taste as this dish had a nice rustic, woodsy taste.

Beef tenderloin special for the evening
Third was the octopus with cannellini beans and a tabasco mash ($12).  The octopus was stunning.  Tender and soft on the inside without the slightest hint of that obnoxious "seafood taste" but heavily charred on the outside, the dry rub coated with octopus so well you could actually taste the pronounced blackened seasonings.  I cannot wait to scurry back to Ada Street and indulge in this especially.


The final "main" we went with and the most delicious of all was the lamb with pickled peppers in a spicy carrot jus ($17).  The lamb was so tender it melted right off the bone and has a dizzying effect on the mind, you'll be entranced, I promise.  It was cooked with such precision that a huge thank you to chef Zoe Schor was in order.


Lastly, for dessert we went with the brioche mini-doughnuts with a port wine caramel ($7) as doughnuts seem to be all the rage as of late and I needed some post-savory sweetness to round out this incredible meal.  The doughnuts were two-biters, very sugary and got the job done.  Very good, but not excellent.  

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And so, that was the most I have to "complain" about from Ada Street.  The dessert which was very good but not excellent.  Everything else surpassed all my expectations by a mile and I was left with a pleasant surprise, a new favorite restaurant.  Ada never skipped a beat as the whole experience crescendoed into one of the most memorable dining experiences I've recently had, on an unmemorable day with nothing to actually celebrate.  Ada Street, elusive, delicious, playful, and intriguing.  As I said in the beginning, cancel your plans and run, don't walk.

Ada Street
http://adastreetchicago.com/

1664 Ada Street
773.697.7069
Takes reservations from website and you can saunter up to the bar if you walk-in and want to wait for a table
Open Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday 6pm- 1am
Friday and Saturday 6pm- 2am