Paul Kahan makes it lucky number 7

His seventh restaurant in Chicago, that is. His proven success at Chicago's individually, highly acclaimed spots include Blackbird, Avec, The Publican, Big Star, the Violet Hour, and new(er) Publican Quality Meat.  If you haven't been to one of these fine establishments you're either living under a rock or have a complete lack of creative bones in your body and thus do not nourish your soul.  Was that harsh? Sorry, but you're missing out.  Get familiar with Kahan's concepts and you'll be more than pleased. He's also a pretty influential Chicagoan.

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The location for his new venture (no name yet) is spot-on as it's planned to be in the Sutton Hotel on Rush Street in the heart of the Viagra Triangle in the Gold Coast replacing the defunct Whiskey Bar and Grille. Immediate competitors include Morton's, Gibson's, Hugo's Frog Bar, and Carmine's; all meat-centric heavy-hitters in their own right but definitely lack the edge, excitement, and vision of Kahan's mastery.

via, Located at 1015 N. Rush Street, Chicago

We cannot wait for more details.  Get more on the scoop here in Crain's Chicago.

A Family Affair at Orso's in Old Town

Situated on the corner of Schiller and Wells Orso's Restaurant exemplifies the meaning and experience of a long-standing Chicago Italian eatery.  Trusted and respected for over 40 years, Orso's has passed the test of time and has welcomed wine-loving, pasta-craving, meatball aficionado Chicagoans with open arms and a big Italian smooch.  Let's just say Lady and the Tramp would definitely approve.  Aside from the friendly service, seasonal specials, and easy-to-navigate, expansive menu covering all the crowd pleasers (i.e.- Calamari Fritti, Caprese Salad, Pizza Margherita, Lasgana Bolognese, Chicken Marsala, the list goes on...) the outdoor space in summer seals the deal.

Part indoor, part outdoor Orso's nails old-school Italian 

Seating more than 50 outside, tucked away from the hustle and bustle of Wells Street, under a vibrant green canopy of vines the outdoor patio is reminiscent of a Roman-style cafe complete with charming red and white umbrellas, soft Italian tunes, and old-school Italian votives on each table to shine just the right amount of light on your delectable Risotto Primavera.

A sprawling outdoor space creates the perfect spot for family and friends to enjoy a quality Italian meal.

The food is legit, here's a small taste of two of the simple, no-frills Italian heavy-weight entrees.

Seasonal special, sautéed whitefish with new potatoes, capers, and fresh basil in a white wine, olive oil sauce.

Spaghetti Del Capo (Substituted with whole-wheat Linguini)
Spaghetti pasta sautéed with fresh tomato, lean ground sausage, chicken breast, escarole, eggplant, oil, garlic and crushed red peppers.

Rotating seasonal specials volunteer some lighter options for Spring and Summer but offer as much flavors as Veal Parmigiana without added guilt.  A bonus for most Italian joints, which rings true here is as well is you really get your moneys worth since the portions are gigantic. You can comfortably get three meals out of one order.

Great for: A group dinner and hitting Wells Street bars afterwards, date night, or families looking for home-cooked Italian minus the home-cooking yourself part.

Orso's 

http://www.orsosrestaurant.com/

1401 N. Wells Street

312.787.6604

Takes reservations from website and is known for throwing excellent dinner parties and events for large groups

Open Monday-Thursday 11am-10:30pm, Friday 11am-Midnight, Saturday Noon-Midnight, Sunday Noon-10pm

That's a good deal: 1/2 Priced Carafes & Bottles of Wine Mondays & Tuesdays (any bottle under $60). 

Hidden gem Ada Street hits high notes

Run, don't walk to Ada Street.  It's that good.  The location of Ada Street is completely unassuming, it's just west of that ugly industrial stretch on Elston avenue between Chicago and North ave.  When we drove up to Ada Street my companion sneered at me while taking in the less than desirable surroundings of abandoned warehouses and garbage trucks bustling, "What the hell is this?" I, on the other hand, had the inkling that something very unique was in store.  Why else would the guys who created uber successful DMK Burger Bar and Fishbar decide to land their next venture smack-dab in the middle of garbage truck lane and speculative crack den boulevard?

I was right, Ada Street was wonderful from the moment you pull open a huge industrial black door adorned with "ada street" all the way up to the mini-doughnut dessert.  Truly, Ada Street didn't have a single fault as every expectation was blown out of the water.  The scene at Ada Street is one of its greatest features; it felt a lot like entering Violet Hour.  The "smart, dark, antique, hidden" vibe works wonders here, as you move from a small candlelit holding room down a long wooden hallway etched with cabinets holding tequila and fine wines to the main dining room.  So elusive and chic.

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Next, enter an expansive bar and seating area that looks like a dressed up garage.

Nearly every table and bar seat was taken as Ada was humming on a Thursday night at 9:45pm, ensuring this place would be excellent for a fun date or a group dinner.  What caught my eye almost immediately was the outdoor space separated by a glass garage door.  Stringed globe lights, astroturf, a ping pong table, a DJ, and a keg.  Heaven? I think so. And I haven't even mentioned the food yet.  Every Thursday Ada street has a DJ spin vinyls while you enjoy a brewski and play a drinking game outside.  Perfect solution if you a) don't have outdoor space at home b) want to revert back to the good ole days of high school c) feel like you want to get your outside sporty on in a rousing match of table tennis while sipping a fine domestic brew.

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On to the reason we're there and the real show-stopper, the cuisine. We started with the salmon tartare, bacon two ways ($12).  Velvety, salty, with just a hint of fresh chive and whipped cream cheese, this heaping, sophisticated spread was bold and refreshing.  Much like lox you might get at brunch yet smooth and dressed up for dinner with two types of caviar.  I highly recommend pairing this appetizer and all dishes with the Louis Bouillot Rose ($8 by the glass) as Rose is light and crisp.  Rose is also having a big coming out moment this summer, more about that to come in another post.

Salmon tartare with bacon two ways

With relative speed our next order flew out of the open kitchen. The special of the evening, beef tenderloin with arugula and shaved, aged parmesan ($15).  The strips of tenderloin were perfectly peppered and all of the juices retained nicely.  The arugula reinforced the pepper taste as this dish had a nice rustic, woodsy taste.

Beef tenderloin special for the evening

Third was the octopus with cannellini beans and a tabasco mash ($12).  The octopus was stunning.  Tender and soft on the inside without the slightest hint of that obnoxious "seafood taste" but heavily charred on the outside, the dry rub coated with octopus so well you could actually taste the pronounced blackened seasonings.  I cannot wait to scurry back to Ada Street and indulge in this especially.

The final "main" we went with and the most delicious of all was the lamb with pickled peppers in a spicy carrot jus ($17).  The lamb was so tender it melted right off the bone and has a dizzying effect on the mind, you'll be entranced, I promise.  It was cooked with such precision that a huge thank you to chef Zoe Schor was in order.

Lastly, for dessert we went with the brioche mini-doughnuts with a port wine caramel ($7) as doughnuts seem to be all the rage as of late and I needed some post-savory sweetness to round out this incredible meal.  The doughnuts were two-biters, very sugary and got the job done.  Very good, but not excellent.  

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And so, that was the most I have to "complain" about from Ada Street.  The dessert which was very good but not excellent.  Everything else surpassed all my expectations by a mile and I was left with a pleasant surprise, a new favorite restaurant.  Ada never skipped a beat as the whole experience crescendoed into one of the most memorable dining experiences I've recently had, on an unmemorable day with nothing to actually celebrate.  Ada Street, elusive, delicious, playful, and intriguing.  As I said in the beginning, cancel your plans and run, don't walk.

Ada Street

http://adastreetchicago.com/

1664 Ada Street

773.697.7069

Takes reservations from website and you can saunter up to the bar if you walk-in and want to wait for a table

Open Sunday, Wednesday, and Thursday 6pm- 1am

Friday and Saturday 6pm- 2am

Slurping Turtle, Happy Stomach

I've been fortunate enough to be a guest not once, but twice, at the innocuous gray and red brick house that resides on the  corner of Damen and Armitage ave, also known as one of the best Japanese restaurants in Chicago, Takashi.  On the inside Takashi is quite cozy and magical.  One of the best components to a meal I've ever had in my life was here; fish accompanied with roasted long-stem Japanese wood mushrooms with a cauliflower foam.  The cauliflower foam (an actual bubbling mini-heap) tasted exactly like creamy, buttered cauliflower; pure heaven.  Behind Takashi is genius skill of head chef James Beard Accolade, Takashi Yagihashi, the pioneer behind the famed Tribute in suburban Detroit.

via Takashi off of Damen ave. in Bucktown

via An elusive flavored foam coating perfectly seared scallops

Takashi is a special occasion restaurant; there's something in the cuisine- and wine, that's approachable yet decadent which calls for sharing.  The more intimate the group you choose to bring here, the better.  Takashi is ideal for a small family get together, an anniversary celebration, or romantic holiday dinner sure to impress. Ah, so dreamy.

A little more helpful info: Takashi holds a Michelin star and serves a noodle-focused brunch. Ok, enough about Takashi.

FINALLY, something more affordable and accessible, sans romance! Yagihashi opened Slurping Turtle in River North and we are dying to get there and take our own noodle slurping picture.  Sushi, noodles, dumplings, and broth, OH MY! With a full bar, located right on hustle-bustle Hubbard ave. Slurping Turtle is bound to hit some high notes and fill some empty bellies.

Food for thought: The turtle is symbolic of longevity in Japan. Thus, the slurping turtle is the quest for the everlasting noodle- and ultimate Japanese comfort food.

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Skip Whole Paycheck- go across the street Kingsbury Street Cafe

Honestly one of the most subtly beautiful and inviting eco-chic cafes in this city aside from Karyn's and Uncommon Gound, Kingsbury Street Cafe focuses on light, healthful meals.  The interior reflects the menu, as the walls and plates are stark white paired with natural inspirations throughout.  The long wooden tables and small cactus-like plants on each table are charming and elegantly restrained.  Kingsbury Street Cafe is lit with a sizable amount of natural sunlight as the front wall is 20 foot windows facing West, providing a refreshing place to start, or unwind from a hectic day.

The quality of the food is as outstanding as the interior; vivid, clean, and leaves an impression.  Nothing here is heavy or overbearingly rich, which is a nice contrast to high-profile restaurants that specialize in making the lunch/ brunch experience the most extravagantly calorie-rich meal of the day.  Kingsbury Street Cafe is playful and imaginative, but completely filling without regret.  Over the top brunch items I'm thinking of  include the Publican's Maple-Glazed Pork Shoulder and The Bristol's hangover breakfast with noodles, pork belly, and a poached egg.  I'm not knocking Chicago's move toward a decadent and deserved brunch, just offering an excellent alternative.

Bypass Whole Foods for once and venture across the street for lunch or brunch. I guarantee you'll be pleasantly surprised and it won't make a huge dent in your wallet. I'm already looking forward to a return trip.

 Roasted beet salad 

with pistachio, edamame, red onion, red wine 

vinaigrette dressing with chicken

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Grass Fed Beef Burger- crispy maple glazed bacon, sautéed 

mushrooms & onions, lettuce, tomato, pickle and a side salad in place of french fries

Thankful for...

MORE TIME! Chicago Gourmet will be back in full force before Christmas... much has happened on the long hiatus, most notably the Chicago Gourmet will be on the WTTW show "Check, Please!" featuring one of our favorites, Ruxbin Kitchen.

There's much more to come... I'm excited to be back!

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Tonight it's Chicago Cut. By no means a new opening, word has quickly spread this is an instant classic. Review to come!

Sunnyside up: New spots for breakfast including Kith & Kin's replacement, Webster Street Cafe

In addition to Jam and Honey (opening on the corner of Sheffield and Webster in Lincoln Park), Brunch in River North, and City Provisions in Ravenswood two more breakfasts spots are on the horizon for hungry Chicago go-getters. The first is the hotly anticipated restaurant replacing Kith & Kin. While owner of the restaurant, Moe Taleb, admitted that he was unsure of what would become of former Kith & Kin space and concept, we doubt he could have predicted this. While we could be wrong, from the exterior it appears a jazzed-up Nookies or John's Place is moving in to serve-up ordinary American fair. High hopes for Chicago foodies everywhere can be laid to rest. Best bet is to follow Kith & Kin's head chef Andrew Brochu to high-end tasting menu driven El. We'll be eager to give Webster Street Cafe a try when they open with a review to follow.

{Former Kith & Kin is now W Street Cafe}

Right around the corner at Kenmore and Armitage, Butcher and Burger is getting ready to open its doors. The only preview they've made available is their breakfast menu. At this point it's unclear if the restaurant is going to focused solely on breakfast or will expand to lunch and dinner. Take a look below.

{Vintage apparel store Out of the West gets an internal make-over and will be Butcher and Burger}

"One laughs when joyous, sulks when angry, is at peace with the world when the stomach is satisfied." -Hawaiian proverb

A critical eye: Yuzu Sushi & Robata Grill

Yuzu

 1715 W. Chicago ave {between Paulina + Hermitage}
(312) 666- 4100


While the hustle and bustle of street traffic and pedestrians doesn't come close to that at Union Sushi and Barbecue in River North, Yuzu Sushi and Robata Grill in Ukrainian Village is serving up some fantastic maki specialty maki rolls and robata grilled skewers (meat, seafood, vegetables) worthy of a visit. Bottom line, Yuzu is a terrific value (skewers at $1.5-$2, maki rolls are $5-$12) for the quality and innovation you're getting, any sushi-snob connoisseur wouldn't dislike the classic spider roll or South Beach roll (pictured below). The BYOB no corkage fee is also a huge plus if you're dining on a budget. Parking in the area is relatively easy to find (for paying on Chicago ave) and the neighborhood isn't zoned. 

The ambiance is clean, unassuming, tight-knit, and rather gray. Hopefully young Yuzu (opened in May) can find a way to make the decor match the vibrant food and Japanese flavors. A little heat hitting something else besides the robata grill could liven things up. Speaking of that robata grill, while the grilled meat, vegetable, and seafood we ordered for the majority tasted fantastic, some more showcasing of the traditional Japanese preparation or explanation of the grill's capabilities would have been appreciated. If you've got a robata grill, flaunt it. In sum, Yuzu was a great value and the sushi was top-notch, we'll be back.

{South Beach Roll. Super white tuna, albacore tuna, cucumber, Japanese pepper, sesame oil, masago, mayo, red & black tobiko, lime}

{Spider Roll. Soft shell crab, marinated crab meat , cucumber, masago, mayo, black tobiko, pepper vinegar sauce}

{Avocado Mango Salad. Avocado, mango, seasonal greens with a creamy ginger dressing. Beautiful presentation}

{This is a one order skewer, appetizer portion of: (from top to bottom) marinated chicken wing with curry sauce, shitake mushroom brushed with ponzu sauce, and miso tuna (ahi tuna brushed with white miso and Japanese mustard. By far the winner here were the mushrooms and chicken wing}

 If teetering on whether to go here's one more reason to give Yuzu a go: Mention "YUMMY" for $10 off (min purchase of $40) Dine-In only. Must mention before order. Excluded tax. Offer available Thursdays 6/24 -9/24/2011.

A critical eye: Davanti Enoteca

Davanti Enoteca

1359 W. Taylor Street

(312) 226-5550

Head Chef: Jonathan Beatty

Davanti Ecoteca is an experience all of us in Chicago must have at some point.  An authentic, romantic Italian-inspired setting breathes new life into familiar flavors and relationships as enjoying dinner with a special someone, a group of friends, or family is rejuvenated.  When we first dined here, dead in the middle of winter, it exuded a warm, cozy feel, so we were skeptical that it would feel too dark and wintery when we went back in June. Pleasantly surprised, we couldn’t have been more wrong. Davanti echoed the vibrancy of spring, as lovely as ever, and we cannot wait to make a third summer trip to experience their upstairs retractable roof area that seats 40!

Props to Davanti’s wine program for its vast selection and more than reasonable price point. Their astute eye and palate for great wine sold at retail price is nearly unheard of in other Chicago born Italian eateries half as nice as Davanti. We got a bottle of 2007 Chianti from their Reserve list for a mere $30 dollars; normally it’s more than twice that amount. 

We started with the Escarole salad with gala apples, pecorino dolce, celery, and hazelnuts bathed in a fruity, light vinaigrette.  This was the perfect, refreshing start to our meal as it forecasted heavier dishes to come.  A must try, the Ragu of the day (something Davanti has mastered and are known for) was a braised Brisket with wild mushrooms in a white wine reduction sauce poured onto a layer of polenta. To round out the meal, sans dessert, we shared the perfectly portioned Paccheri conSalsiccia e Pomodori al forno (Giant Rigatoni, rustic, smoky sausage, oven fire-roasted tomato, and parmigiano cheese). Flawlessly al dente pasta and homemade tomato sauce certified that we will never enjoy pasta sauce from a jar ever again; Davanti is the real deal and far less expensive than springing for the red eye to Positano, Italia. 

1 bottle of outstanding wine and sharing 3 plates enough to satiate 2 diners, our total bill was $62.  Exceptional value, we’re thinking we need to go more often than once a season. See you at Davanti!

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