A critical eye: Taco Joint

1969 N. Halsted {Halsted + Armitage}
(312) 951-2457

When it comes to big taste in tiny tacos, congratulations Big Star, you reign supreme. Taco Joint just doesn't cut it. The service was attentive but nothing to be wowed by, as you'd expect from a casual Mexican-Cantina restaurant. Unlike Zocalo (Taco Joint was developed by the same business group and chefs) which I thoroughly enjoyed for its rustic, smoky flavors, and authentic Dia de los Muertos-esque space, the Mexican fare at taco joint was mediocre at best.
Moving my uncertain opinion (I was optimistic that Taco Joint would be a fantastic Zocalo mini-me) into an assertive "no thanks" is the atmosphere at Taco Joint. It cannot compete with the minimalistic, cool vibe and insane outdoor seating you get at Big Star. It's unfortunate the way this restaurant space was conceived, it's totally disjointed and feels like you're eating in a dark, single-lane bowling alley. The hot pink and green logo had to be a tacky oversight- it reminds me of something you'd see on a sign at a cheesy theme park like Disney World. Or worse yet, Great America.
The house margarita was generic and the salted rim was not properly done, what bartender at a self-proclaimed TEQUILA bar doesn't know how to salt the rim? Two steps: line glass edge with lime and dip in salt. The only taco I would recommend was the "Tinga" the house "guac-salsa" in the taco was bold and added some much needed zing.
Price and portions were minimal- succinct with the food and drink end result. Go to the bigger, better Taqueria in town, Big Star.

A critical eye: Topolobampo

Head Chef: Rick Bayless

445 N. Clark ave {Clark + Illinois}
(312) 661-1434

Topolobampo, hands down, proves to be one of the most outstanding restaurants in Chicago. It even might be better than outstanding, if that's possible. It's easily understood how Rick Bayless is literally a Top Chef Master. All of the food was beautifully composed and stays true to the season we're in, currently winter. Attention to flavor, texture, freshness, and detail went the extra mile with each dish and cocktail. Bayless seamlessly pays homage to the livelihood and culture of Mexico through his inspired talent. It's clear that this is his joie de vive and his passion truly shines through. The one-of-a-kind Mexican art adorned on the shelves and walls compliment the expertise of the food, a whirlwind of taste overwhelms the senses. Topolobampo is without a doubt the best of the best, making all other Mexican restaurants just another greasy taco joint.

{The signature Topolobampo margarita. Perfection}

{Guacamole + chips. Fresh, crisp cucumber and radish slices stand in for the all too familiar overly salted tortilla chip}

{Trucha Ahumada con salsa negra. Hot smoked rushing waters trout with sweet, smoky salsa negra. Butter cream, chicharron powder, grilled frisee and lime-dressed mache. The waiter informed us that only one sous chef in Chicago and possibly North American is skilled enough to create the hot black salsa}

{Chorizo y Morcilla con huevo. Crispy homemade chorizo blood sausage, Little farm egg two ways. Crispy smoked bacon meringue, three-chile salsa, roasted turnips}

{Langosta y callos de hacha en salsa invernal. Maine lobster and viking village sea scallops in creamy sauce of Nichols Farm sunchokes and roasted poblanos chiles, salt cod croquettes, young coconut, black barley, puffed wild rice, watercress leaves}

{Pato en pipian de castana. Roasted duck breast in ancho-chestnut pipian. Herby polenta-style tamal, shaved chestnut, seared green beans, crispy onions}

{Pescado en horchata. Day-boat catch in "horchata" sauce (creamy almond, Mexican cinnamon) and lime-infused chia seeds. Goat cheese tamal, dark pasilla chile oil, roasted cauliflower, toasted almonds}
Other notables include the coctel de atun tropical (sashimi grade hawaiian yellowfin tuna cocktail with chunky avocado-tomatillo guacamole and tangy papaya-grapefruit salsa and the smooth, robust, smoky sopa azteca (dark broth flavored with pasilla, with grilled chicken, avocado, meadow valley farm hand-made jack cheese, thick cream and crispy tortillas.

{And of course, dessert. Pastel de tres leches y citricos (malted "tres leches" cake with coriander-caramel ice cream. Bayless Garden calamondin orange puree, blood-orange-citrus salad, creamy meringue.}
Topolobampo is one of those special occasions you'll find any excuse to come running back to celebrate at. Bayless' genius credits Chicago with the title of top contender for best culinary cities. Marvelous.