Monday, May 16, 2011

A critical eye: Paris Club

Head Chef: Jean Joho

59 W. Hubbard ave {Hubbard + West of Dearborn}
(312) 595-0800

If you love Hub 51, just a stones throw away, the odds are good for developing a penchant for the Melmans' revamped French hot spot Paris Club. Loud, crowded, sultry, and brimming with the souped-up River North crowd, Paris Club manages to deliver another cookie cutter culinary experience.
As a self-titled epicurean, I can validate that the ambiance is cliché if not a human French eat-a-thon factory, but the food maintains some real stand-outs. The escargot bourguignonne wrapped in a light puff pastry was a wonderful way to usher in the French fair to come. How can you go to a French restaurant and not try the snails? Unheard of. Country pâté was delicious while the foie gras and short rib pressé was on the salty side and lacked in aesthetics on the plate. Onto the pinnacle of the meal: the paper-bag snapper. It's divine. It's light yet substantial, served with fresh lemon, fennel, and olives; it exudes Bourgeoisie class.
Overall this is a leap, not a step, up from its predecessor Brasserie Jo. French fair is appetizing, accessible, and Paris Club does a great job at diversifying pretentious French food. However, I question Paris Club's staying power once the craze to try it dies down. I have an inclination it will turn into Brasserie Jo the sequel.


{The scene in the gigantic dining room}

{A quiet spot at the bar}

{pork rillettes with dijon,fine herbs, and pickles}

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