Perennial 2.0

Perennial Virant

1800 N. Lincoln ave {Lincoln + Wells}

(312) 984-7070

Head Chef: Paul Virant

If you've already dined at Perennial be prepared for some serious updates to the decor and menu that's  pleasantly surprising. More subdued and relaxed, the interior of Perennial is cool shades of gray with touches of nature in a bevy of mixed woods on the tables and floor and a rainbow of pickled vegetables lining the walls. When the light hits the hundreds of jars, just at the right angle, Perennial is literally illuminated by the beauty and preservation of its own food. 

The best part about Perennial 2.0 is the attention to detail over-all. From the charismatic service to the extensive wine program to the emphasis on the freshest provisions from the farmer's market, Green City Market (right across the street). After a filling meal on a Friday night, CG was thrilled to see the Dietzler specialty meat stand at Green City Market boasting their best cuts and our very own order, the strip steak, high up on the menu. This is no coincidence. When coaxing Paul Virant to strike a deal, the Boka group owners knew of Virant's farm-to-table philosophy and pointed out the ease of proximity to one of Midwest's best farmers markets. Seasonal, sustainable, healthful preparations are paramount at PV.

You can do the PV "experience" titled the PV3 three-course pre-fixe tasting menu for $35 or enjoy sharable plates ranging from $8 to $27. 

We loved PV and would recommend it to any and everyone. We'll be making a second trip very soon.

{Werp farm lettuces with radishes, basil, fennel, pickled tomato vinaigrette,  prairie fruit farm fresh chevre cheese}

{Crispy Carnaroli Rice, brunkow cheese curds, spring onion vinaigrette. The was outstanding in gooey, cheesey, richness. The crust mimics a grilled cheese where the rice inside serves as a risotto. Uniquely genius in composition and flavor}

{Seared Diver Sea Scallops, city farm carrot puree, sorghum butter,  watercress}

{Grilled Dietzler farm strip steak with ramps three ways: tempura, vinaigrette, and creamed. Ramp is a seasonal, mild root vegetable that's highlighted with the steak. This was the best steak we've had in a long time, just wish there was ten times more of it} 

Who to bring:

• Anyone looking to share a special occasion
• A picky eater (there's something for everyone)
• Family or a group (better chances of getting a table, just make reservations ahead of time

Give it a try:

• Yukon gold potato gnocci
• Pan-roasted wall eye pike 
• Rabbit Ballotine

The Cape comes to Chicago

Fishbar

2956 N. Sheffield ave {Sheffield + Wellington}
(773) 687-8177

Fishbar met and surpassed every expectation we had. If you love good seafood, go. If you haven't made it to Cape Cod or Key West for an authentic right-off-the-wharf dining experience, go. If you're hungry, go. There's really no reason to not give Fishbar a try. While the hype and lines have certainly died down, the sustainability and success of Fishbar is likely to last for one key reason. No other neighborhood joint departs so far from the traditional mom and pop sandwich joint with such triumph and memorability; the seafood is so scrumptious we can guarantee you'll be looking forward to your next visit.

The prices were beyond reasonable for the top-notch quality seafood you're getting. Carpaccio, ceviche, tartares and fried delights were all under $10, no breaking the bank here. Undoubtedly would be a great place for an adventurous yet affordable date.

Right in line with the menu's prices was the decor of Fishbar, uniquely rustic it oozes East coast charm without a kitschy feel. A huge hanging canoe, oversized Marlin, and weathered ship wood line the walls while a blend of contemporary, Chicago jazz, and cajun music blast on the loud speakers. At the bar are smaller authentic touches: mason jars with silverware, Louisiana hot sauces and a variety of no-frill crackers for soup. Casual and relaxed, but cooler than the other side of the pillow, Fishbar actually elevates seafood by removing all that's pretentious about raw oysters or clams and making it approachable.

Be aware: they have rules. Parties of 6 or more must go next door to DMK for burgers and all seating is at the bar on rusty stools. If you have a larger party (under 6) go for the corner end of the counter or nab one of the 4 booths. The service was on-point, timely, considerate, and light-hearted; matching the feeling of the joint.

The outside

Inside the fish haven

More of the counter and chalkboard featuring daily specials

The menu

Oyster shooters. Horseradish is pungent masking the vodka and slippery oyster inside. Not recommended for the faint diner.

The lobster bisque done with a Fishbar twist. Not a cream-based soup this was became more delicious the more you ate it. Honestly I thought the soup was too peppery and could taste the fishstock, quite a turn-off for a first bite. When I revisited it the more I appreciated the complexity, depth, and tang of flavors. Not to mention the lobster chunks at the bottom.

Drooling. Luscious lobster gold. A generous lobster piece in the not-so-classic bisque.

Salmon Tartare special of the day. Again this was quite peppery but appropriately complimented the freshness of the salmon.

The wahoo ceviche special of the day. The fish must be caught, prepped, and canned with fresh pineapple, avocado, and red onion overnight; the clean, bright flavors sung a tropical melody. Vacations to Florida and the Caribbean can be postponed.

Federal Hill style calamari. The peppers stand in for red sauce. Perfectly sweet and hot take a fork-full of calamari ring and pepper for an unforgettable combination.

Who to bring:

• Smaller groups or a date
• A seafood-fearing friend

What to try (and skip)

• Skip the over-publicized lobster roll, teeny tiny for its price, a whopping market price of $18 for a less than 6 inch long sandwich is absurd.
• Crabby patty sandwich
• A La plancha octopus
• Gumbo soup
• Get creative, specials of the day are sure to feature what's in season and the most fresh

Take note

• The servers are behind the bar like actual bartenders. No agonizing bumping or turning around to flag them down; they'll never be behind you

CG Food Flash: Kith & Kin is finished

Wow. That was quick. Sure, all the turmoil surrounding Kith & Kin's back of house and the departure of Chef David Carrier caused some major bumps in the road but who could have anticipated Kith & Kin closing up shop in a matter of days?

CG heard the news late afternoon yesterday and coincidentally was in the neighborhood. Kith & Kin had all the brown-papered up, definitely no more diners. Lincoln Parkers mustn't fear; another ritzy neighborhood joint is sure to move in soon assures owner Moe Taleb. Residing Chef Andrew Brochu comments on the future of the Kith & Kin space, "I love casual dining, but my passion is a little fancier," he said. "The restaurant and ambiance up north is a little fancier."

CG Food Flash: Perennial Virant Now Open

If there's one thing that Paul Virant has mastered, it's the art of the Hollywood- in Chicago, entrance.

It's not uncommon to read rave reviews on Paul Virant's acclaimed suburban restaurant Vie in Western Springs, which is why Perennial (sans Ryan Poli who is off to open Tavernita) offered him the job as the new main man running and renovating his own vision. Naturally he said "Yes!" and tacked his name on the end to boot. Cuisine is centered on the "farm to table" concept, ideal considering Green City Market is right across the street. Decor is described as cozy, organic, and is if you're in someone's home. We're looking forward to the creative cocktails and highly anticipated pickled and canned fresh vegetables landing on our plate. Here are some photos of the new digs.

Gasp-worthy? We'll see. CG will be there tonight.

Perennial Virant
1800 N Lincoln ave
(312) 981-7070

A critical Eye: Kith & Kin

Kith & Kin

Head Chef: Andrew Brochu
1119 W Webster ave {Webster + W of Seminary}
(773) 472- 7070

It seems the turmoil following Kith & Kin can't be resolved- back or front of house. The service is consistently spotty and not confident. All in all they've got to step it up and ensure that the food matches the service, otherwise the imbalance leaves a sour taste.

I've been to Kith and Kin a total of 4 times and each visit varies in quality of service from spot-on to horrendous. We'll start with the good: an outstanding waiter with a heavy beard knows the menu in and out, gives great drink recommendations, and basically runs the floor. If you get him as your server you're safe- as for some of the others, well, back to the drawing board. Fast forward to the nightmare: a rainy Saturday night Kith & Kin was jammed but we managed to get a picturesque, romantic seat on a balcony overlooking the restaurant. After waiting 1 hour and 15 minutes for our scallops and chicken entree a girlfriend and I were forgotten and starved. Our server kept insisting that our food would be "Right out" and on came the cocktails. By the time the food arrived I didn't even remember it. We got a free sticky toffee pudding dessert and our bill reduced considerably. At one point, I'd say an hour after waiting, I actually got up and consulted the bearded server because he was so fantastic before and told him the situation. He of course took care of it right away and let me know that it was my server's second day on the job, still no excuse. That was the only time I've had to get up in a fine dining establishment and track down someone to get help. It really was absurd.

Don't let my bad experience steer you away. Kith & Kin is unique as it is elegant when everything lands on the plate. Fantastic cuts are complimented by bold, anything but precarious flavors. True to its roots the menu is seasonally rotating and incorporates shining southern delights like authentic hush puppies, buttermilk biscuits, and cornmeal grits. If you've got a hankerin' for great food from down south but don't want to pay Table 52 prices, go to Kith & Kin.

{Pimento cheese spread. Cue bold flavors. The cheese and spanish pimentos are very, very vibrant to the palate. The most comforting feature of cheese, naturally, is the warm, gooey consistency that melts in your mouth after its spread on the crisp baguette. You get so much that leftovers are inevitable and still delicious the next day}

{Buttermilk biscuits with honey butter. Fluffy, airy, baked to perfection}

{Bar Harbour Mussels in a heavenly spiced broth, candied shrimp and ciabatta bread for dipping. The mussels must have been given steroids, they were huge- I mean truly GIANT. The broth was divine, I could have sipped it right out of the bowl}

{Housemade corned beef with a pickled mustard jus and braised cabbage. The beef is phenomenal, the heavy, robust sauce pairs well with the cabbage and meat}

{Blackened tiger shrimp on top of smoked cheddar grits and scallions. In order to get to the shrimp meat you have to scrape it out of the shell of the shrimp, it's messy and labor intensive which hurts the favorability of the dish. But, when you get that bite- ah, it's so worth it. The intense blackened char flavor dances with garlic and onion spices. Well done}

Who to bring:

• A date. Candlelit dinner in a comfortable atmosphere will make any occasion more meaningful. 
• Meat eaters. They've got: rabbit, chicken, corned beef, and wagyu ribeye two ways
• Family small or large, there's something for everyone 

What to try:

• This is a MUST- the Moscow Mule cocktail (Vodka, Gosslings black seal rum, with lime and ginger beer. I wish this came by the pitcher)
• Foie gras starter
• Rabbit stew
• Buttermilk fried chicken thighs 
• Fried catfish

Take note:

• As the menu rotates so does the art. Kith & Kin uses their walls as an open gallery for local artists who wish to display their latest masterpiece
• Kith means friends and kin means family

A critical eye: Green Zebra

Green Zebra

Head Chef: Shawn McClain
1460 W. Chicago ave {Chicago + Greenview}
(312) 243-7100

Green Zebra is a vegetarian oasis in a city of carnivores. The brunch truly hit all the high notes you're looking for on a Sunday mid-day. It's refreshing to forgo the traditional sausage, bacon, ham, and other artery-clogging meats that we've become so accustomed to. The brunch menu was entirely vegetarian and vegan- and incredibly reasonable! The most expensive dish was $13, quite the deal for the refined flavors and top-notch vegetables. The service was highly attentive and knowledgeable- especially when your table of meat eaters has a dozen questions like, "what is the heck is a ramp?"  Portions were smaller, this is not where you want to feast after a night out drinking, it won't fill you up and you won't appreciate it. At the same time, the consistency and heartiness was in each dish and I left feeling full. The aesthetics were neutral yet organic; there's a clear union of beauty of nature the vegetables on your plate.

When Toast, Orange, or Nookies gets old or your in the mood to eat healthy in the AM, give Green Zebra a try. I thoroughly enjoyed my vegetarian experience and will give dinner a whirl.

{Simplicity and tranquility inside; hustle-bustle, odd storefronts, and Noble Square riff-raff outside}

{The magnificently spicy horseradish infused bloody mary. It's not pictured but the green olive served with this was monstrous}

{The spongey breakfast cookies paired well with either spread. The almond butter compote is nutty and smooth while the dark blackberry jam is naturally sweet}

{A hollow popover filled with seasonally fresh spring ramps. Sherry, squash, goat cheese and chestnut cream liquid in the warm center}

{Dim sum for one. Squash shamoai, rutabaga dumplings, mushu}

{Anson mills grits, smoked mushrooms, mustard greens, poached eggs. This fell flat, it was heavy and bland. Pass}

{Country flatbread, bourbon glazed mushrooms, white truffle, fried egg. Emphasis on the freshest vegetables, sauces, and baked bread flavors are magnified by the fleur de sel, as visible in the photo above}

Who to bring:

• Your vegan/ vegetarian/ health obsessed friend
• An open-minded group
• A yoga buddy
• An avid meat eater to prove that exposure to a new way of eating never hurts

Give it a try:

• Popover with ramps
• Buttermilk biscuits and sunnyside up eggs
• Eggs benedict

Take note:

• The stunning artwork adorned around the dining room and in main entrance

CG is going green!

In following with today's "holiday," Earth Day, I thought I'd share a link to the Trib's list of 17 green restaurants in and around our city.
While most people don't observe earth day, ie- plant a tree, pick up trash, write a letter to your local congressman about how your beach is so polluted most of the days it's shutdown due too looming e. coli threats, it would be advisable to at least be choosy about where you eat this weekend. It gives you purpose for your choice and sparks conversation.
Scroll through the list and see what surprises you. What caught my eye was the dining room at Kendall college, it looks almost whimsically romantic with a great view of the city lights, who knew? CG is looking into it. Also, kudos to Paul Kahan and the Avec/Blackbird troop for their eco-friendly ways.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/travel/chicago/ct-chicago-s-green-restaurants-pg,0,3724550.photogallery

On a side note, I'm looking forward to Easter and sticking with the green theme. Brunch will be at Green Zebra. It's the acclaimed vegetarian and vegan-focused sister of Spring in Bucktown. Full report to come.

http://www.greenzebrachicago.com/menu_brunch.html
Daily Deal: If you go to Starbucks with an empty tumbler or mug they'll give you a cup of joe for free. Thanks Mama Earth!

A critical eye: GT Fish & Oyster

Head Chef: Giuseppe Tentori
531 N. Wells st {Wells + Grand}
(312) 929-3501

Impressive. Rustic. Seductive. Well-rounded. Worth the wait. Tentori's manifesto is articulated to perfection in each bite: appreciation for fish and seafood divine.
The Boka group struck gold with GT Fish & Oyster. The menu is divided into two long columns, hot and cold. I loved the idea of diverging dishes into their most basic state, it made decisions and ordering effortless. I suggest start cold, end warm. From the fresh east and west coast oysters, to the detail-oriented service, to the final bite of your piping hot sturgeon, GT shines. Of everything I ate there was only 1 dud and 1 criticism; regardless GT just sky rocketed to top the of my favorite restaurants in Chicago. Every high hope I had was met or surpassed.
The energy of GT was buzzing, as expected from a hot new opening, but this buzz is sure to stay. Ornate touches like the tangled lighting fixture featured above the front table is composed of rope, antique lanterns, and various nautical items; truly beautiful. Oil paintings of nineteenth century ships line the clean white walls. Take a closer look, most of the paintings have a "GT" cleverly added somewhere on the canvas. A sophisticated, Cape Cod-esque decor compliments the seafood focused experience.

{GT's own Burn oyster sauce. Spicy and tangy, goes well with PEI oysters}

{Miso glazed cod. Delicate clean components made this subtle dish very tasty and memorable}

{BBQ Eel with wasabi and lettuce. MUST TRY, it was delicious}

{Crab cake. Safe, actually I'd go as far as calling it bland. Pass}

{Sturgeon with lentils and carrots. The lentils were overly salty, otherwise the fish was perfect, it retained an incredible smoky, pepper taste}

{The lovely snapper ceviche with edamame beans and black nori. The fish was terrific; the light vinaigrette made this dish cohesive. The zesty vinaigrette brought balance and an acidic asian influence}

{Ahi tuna tacos. Gives Mercadito a run for their money. Only thing that would have made these better is adding an element of crunch. The texture came off a tad too mushy}
Price point is middle to high, as expected from fine dining and seafood. All in all, awesome food and experience. Hopefully I'll be returning sooner than later. 

Welcome to the Chicago breakfast club, Kanela

Kanela Breakfast Club

3231 N. Clark ave {Clarke + S. of Aldine}
(773) 248-1622

Tired of the same 'ol homemade pancakes and eggs? I am. Thank god I tried Kanela. I was pleasantly surprised with how great this brunch spot is. The baked potatoes side was top notch and most memorable. These potatoes were easily in the top 5 for what our city has to offer. Crisp, petite, baked with fresh herbs, and not at all greasy.
It's easy to say the turnover from Orange to Kanela (Greek word that translates to cinnamon) was a great move. Kanela will please all brunch-goers but serves up classics with an international spin. All of the brunch fair has hints of Greek flavors scattered throughout their options, think freshly whipped feta, fresh basil, and loads of colorful peppers. Lamb at breakfast? Sure why not? Get a freshly baked pastry served with Julius Meinl coffee, sit back and enjoy a great brunch.
The service was timely and warm. Kanela is an urban safe-haven for a relaxed meal after a long, hustle-bustle weekend. My date brought the Sunday Trib, normally I'd be perturbed by the absence of conversation, instead I enjoyed the Living section, (for food and dining of course) my tall cup of coffee, and my ham and cheese crepes.





{Ham and Cheese crepe with chives and herbed baked potatoes}

{Spicy feta omelette with whipped feta, red onion, red chili pepper, tomato, and toast. When they say spicy, listen up, this isn't for the faint of heart}
What I'd go back for:

• The coffee
• The great service and affordable price
• The portobello benedict
• Stuffed french toast with greek yogurt, berries, and an apple-jalapeno chutney
• If I was feeling very indulgent, the bacon waffle with chocolate bacon, bourbon caramel, and bacon dust

CG Food Flash: Fulton's with a twist

Just opened: Bridge Bar


315 N. La Salle Dr. {Above Fulton's at La Salle + the river}
(312) 822-0100

Fulton's on the River spearheads a new cocktail/bar lounge with traditional bar food composed of high quality product and refined flavors. Freshly chucked oysters, flatbreads, salads and burgers are on the menu. The zany drink list conceived in Chicago's first "cocktail kitchen" boasts some interesting concoctions like beef jerky vodka in the Bull Shot and Slim Jim infused bourbon. Expect the unexpected.
The views are promising; nothing can compare to looking down the Chicago River and the stunning architecture lined along the way. Casual yet romantic Bridge Bar is ideal for an out of towner.
To see what they've got go here: http://tastingtable.com/recipe/BridgeBar_Menu_tastingtablechi.pdf

A critical eye: Paris Club

Head Chef: Jean Joho

59 W. Hubbard ave {Hubbard + West of Dearborn}
(312) 595-0800

If you love Hub 51, just a stones throw away, the odds are good for developing a penchant for the Melmans' revamped French hot spot Paris Club. Loud, crowded, sultry, and brimming with the souped-up River North crowd, Paris Club manages to deliver another cookie cutter culinary experience.
As a self-titled epicurean, I can validate that the ambiance is cliché if not a human French eat-a-thon factory, but the food maintains some real stand-outs. The escargot bourguignonne wrapped in a light puff pastry was a wonderful way to usher in the French fair to come. How can you go to a French restaurant and not try the snails? Unheard of. Country pâté was delicious while the foie gras and short rib pressé was on the salty side and lacked in aesthetics on the plate. Onto the pinnacle of the meal: the paper-bag snapper. It's divine. It's light yet substantial, served with fresh lemon, fennel, and olives; it exudes Bourgeoisie class.
Overall this is a leap, not a step, up from its predecessor Brasserie Jo. French fair is appetizing, accessible, and Paris Club does a great job at diversifying pretentious French food. However, I question Paris Club's staying power once the craze to try it dies down. I have an inclination it will turn into Brasserie Jo the sequel.


{The scene in the gigantic dining room}

{A quiet spot at the bar}

{pork rillettes with dijon,fine herbs, and pickles}

Best affordable eats: Urban Belly

Head Chef: Bill Kim
3053 N. California ave {California + Barry}
(773) 583-0500
 A short trans-city car ride seems like a voyage across land and ocean with a big pay off when you arrive at the hidden gem of the far east, asian infusion street-chic cuisine that is Urban belly. Bare walls convey a serious and almost somber temperament; vitality and grandeur is restored with the long communal tables and seating made of ancient Indonesian fishing ship wood.
Bill Kim's method for dining is as easy as it gets: bring your own beverage, place your order, take a number, grab a seat, enjoy, repeat. The menu is a diverse smathering of Asian influences and flavors, with an emphasis on dumplings and noodles in well melded, warm broths. The pho is outstanding, I would go back a hundred times over just for that unique taste. Reverence is paid to the heritage of this 1950's born Vietnamese staple in a delicate and bold manner. A refreshing replacement to over publicized and consumed Chicago sushi spots, Urban belly is an escape to the Orient without the Japonais/ Takashi pricetag.
Another likable quality: 9 times out of 10 Bill Kim or his wife will be there to greet or thank you for coming in. 

{#4 Duck and Pho spices}

{#12 Urbanbelly ramen with pork belly, shiitake, and pho broth}

{#14 Asian egg noodles stir fried with spicy, real spicy, garlic chili, tofu and chinese egg plant}

{Sticky, gummy citrus candy from Vietnam}
Who to Bring

• A date
• Your hipster friend(s)
• Anyone on a budget
• Anyone in a don't leave my neighborhood to eat out rut

Give it a try

• #11 udon shrimp, coriander, in a sweet chili lime broth
• #7 pork belly and pineapple rice
• #5 pork and cilantro dumpling
• #3 Asian squash and bacon dumpling

Hubbard Inn part deux

I can safely say that Hubbard Inn got under my skin and tapped new heights of frustration. I booked a party of 10 for a special occasion, a birthday that I was in charge of. While our party was complete 10 minutes past 8, we weren't seated until 9:10pm. On a Thursday. They were aware and acknowledged it was a special occasion more than a week ahead of time.
After drinking one too many Hemingway daiquiris at the bar while my party wasted away and was starting to get that funny look in their eye, we were seated. Our compensation? A round of free drinks from the manager, exactly what we didn't need.
The manager and hostesses weren't accommodating, organized, or pleasant. They couldn't even keep a reservation. If I ever do go back it will be with extreme caution. I would not advise booking a party here under any circumstance, this virgin bar doesn't have their act together.


No thanks.

It's a feast!

Feast Restaurant + Bar


Bucktown: 1616 N. Damen ave                   Gold Coast: 25 E. Delaware place
(773) 772-7100                                          (312) 337-4001
Bustling city streets like Damen and Michigan ave have a satisfying, contemporary dining haven. Dinner, lunch, and brunch will please even the most picky of eaters, guaranteed. An entire gluten-free menu with healthy alternatives, pitcher cocktails, fantastic salads, oversized burgers, and much more, Feast Restaurant + Bar's got it all. This is my go to brunch spot when places like Toast, Nookies, or the next hot thing's got a line 5 miles long.
I'll admit I have an affinity for brunch here, although I've done dinner. It's not the same experience, Feast becomes a bit stale. It's as if all you want for dinner is a steak with potatoes and all the menu can deliver is steak and eggs... go for brunch.
On the upside, Feast is incredibly inviting. In either outpost you get the sense that you're walking into someone's colorful dining room. The service varies but tends to be prompt and friendly. Also, with most meals running you between $10-$15 it's very affordable.
Find yourself loving it? Take advantage of the daily specials, 1/2 bottles of wine to go, and delivery.
If you have time go next door to the Goddess and the Grocer, it's a miniature Dean and Deluca. Handpicked jarred goods (salsas, jams, pesto, marinara, cookies, etc.) and wine flown in from across the country, pungent coffee, and a diverse deli & bakery make Goddess hip and heavenly. Every time I pay a visit I dream about hosting the perfect picnic along the lake or Millennium Park, as everything I would ever need is there with that wow factor. Lets just say, I wish I had one on my corner.

{Feast in Bucktown}

{Goddess and the Grocer in Bucktown}

{Build your own omelet with crisp potatoes}

{Easy Lox, smoked salmon toasted bagel, cream cheese, sliced tomatoes, red onion, lettuce, caper and lemon}
Who to bring

• Family, picky eater friends, a casual date

Give it a try

• Eggs portobello & crab benedict
• Garbage omelet
• Chopped salad
• Grilled chicken club
• Blackened fish tacos
• Butternut squash ravioli
• Sticky Toffee Cake Moist Dates